mardi 29 mai 2012

Tourism and Religious Unrest

Tunisia relies heavily on tourism as its source of foreign exchange.  As such, the sputtering industry is giving cause for concern across the country.  The beaches are fairly empty, even on weekends, and the hotels (of which there are many) rest nearly vacant.  Tourists are still afraid to come to come to Tunisia due to reports of unrest, and this image is propagated in the news both in the United States and abroad.  However, the news that is presented doesn't give a clear depiction of the state of things in Tunisia.

As far as I can see (given my 2 weeks of expert knowledge and participatory observation) the unrest is generally divided regionally.  It tends to plague the poorer zones in the northwest near the Algerian border and the inland areas to the south, west and east.  There are constant issues along the border with Libya, but that has been the case for years.  The religious unrest largely stems from a resurgence of fundamentalism that has been allowed to flourish following Ben Ali's ousting.  Ben Ali made sure that religious extremism, and really any overly-demonstrative religious actions were suppressed.  He worked hard to prove Tunisia was friendly to the west, and to him this meant religious stifling.  Now that people are free to act as they please, more and more Islamists are appearing throughout the country.

The Islamists (from what I have gathered through multiple conversations) want to institute Shari'a (holy law) law into the constitution.  This would ban the sale of alcohol, require stricter control over women's rights, actions and appearances, and would put in power a religious regime.  As such, the riots in the north led to several liquor stores being burned down as well as rioting a police station.

The problem, however, is that Tunisia wants its tourists back.  There is work and money in tourism, both of which are desperately needed.  So, the attacks don't help as the only serve to reinforce perceptions that Tunisia is still dangerous (which it isn't in the bigger cities and tourist zones).  Furthermore, the insistence on holy law would effectively ban the sale of alcohol, of which tourists are in hot pursuit.  They come to vacation here to drink on the beach 7 months a year, not just see the sights.  Moreover, hostility towards women in a region that relies heavily on beach activities limits women's comfort in public.  It is really just a bad idea.

So, the random upsurges of violence and drama are really misplaced ideals that have been suppressed for too long and are now bubbling over.  Islam is about peace, my friend Bilel tells me, and the people who are rioting unfortunately taint the image of a peaceful and intellectual religion.  But things are safe in general here. I just won't be vacationing in Libya any time soon.

samedi 26 mai 2012

Changes After the Revolution

Interestingly enough, not everyone in Tunisia considers the revolution a good thing.  I think that for the first months after the revolution the adrenaline rush that accompanies change sustained the citizens of Tunisia.  The release of endorphins that erupted following the sweeping change and collective activism that spurred the ousting of the 23 year dictator Ben Ali allowed Tunisians to ignore the inevitable and uncomfortable process of democratization. However, now that they are in the middle of the somewhat painful process, many are realizing that forcing out an oppressive regime is not the same as being prepared to establish a new system.

The growing pains are many and are discussed at length.  As one might have discussed the weather or soccer before, now one discusses the revolution and the results of it, what has changed and what has stayed the same. I have heard many people say (from all socioeconomic statuses) that while Ben Ali was bad for Tunisia, a corrupt gangster and a poorly educated dictator, the country functioned more smoothly under his hand.  Generally people acknowledge a wide-ranging sense of lawlessness.  People no longer fear the police, the police fear the people.  Traffic laws have become something of a nod to order rather than a mandatory set of rules for driving.  People drive as they please.  Unemployment is high (as high as 30-40% among youth).  In total there are 800,000 unemployed Tunisians.  This is about 9.5% of the total population but more than 18% of the total active, working population.

A substantial reason for this unemployment is the sharp decline in tourism.  Tourism is responsible for a large part of Tunisia's foreign exchange and is a principal driver of the economy.  For example, there are nearly 8,000 Tunisians in Sousse who are or were directly employed in the tourism industry.  That number doubles or even triples according to some estimates when one considers the number of people indirectly related to or employed by tourism.  But, tourists are afraid of Tunisia.  They fear recurring civil unrest and violence.  As the new constitution is drafted and elections approach in early 2013, there is a palpable tension.  Strikes are a regular activity and people are trying to assert their voices as Tunisia continues to change.  So tourists who before came to lounge on the beaches travel to Morocco or the Canary Islands to avoid the potential problems in Tunisia.

My work with Apposition and Civic Engagement Organization (ACEO) is focused on job creation and job training for the time being.  I am working on some grant-writing projects that will work to provide job training for youth in impoverished bedroom communities in order to try and increase the likelihood of job placement.  Many of the youth in these poor suburbs make it only to 6th grade, dropping out after to find work.  However, given the staggeringly high unemployment rates, there is no work, leading to higher rates of delinquency, drug use, arrest, violence etc...  So our work is timely and important, but it also must be meaningful and effecting.  job training for the sake of doing something is not enough: Tunisian young people must also find work.

Corruption is still a process.  While in the municipal offices of one of the cities with which I am working two mornings ago, a police officer stormed in, enraged that he was asked to pay property taxes.  By his estimate he was a law officer and worked for the government and actually above the need to pay his taxes.  His service was enough.  He was entitled to a pass.  There is still a pervasive sense of entitlement among government functionaries and civil servants.  It is left over from the quasi mafia/rentier state rule that Ben Ali left behind.  I am interested in seeing where this leads, and how it may affect our work.  For now these are just my preliminary assessments and observations.  My views and opinions will obviously change, given that I have only been here for 10 days.  Regardless, I leave you with the following article.  Cheers, Asslama.  AJ

http://www.foreignpolicy.com/articles/2012/05/25/the_godfathers_of_tunis?page=0,0

Disclaimer

The first note is just a disclaimer.  The views and opinions expressed in this blog are mine, and solely my own, and do not represent the views of American University School of International Service or Apposition and Civic Engagement Organization (ACEO) or any other association or individual with whom I am associated.  My views and opinions are intended solely for the purposes of personal communiques and entertainment.  Thank you and enjoy.